1973 240Z fuse box swap? - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-01-2000, 01:06 AM
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1973 240Z fuse box swap?

<HTML>Hey, I have a 1973 240Z. I was wondering if I can swap out my old fuse box for a more updated one that uses normal automotive fuses. Is there any written instructions on the net about this? Thanks</HTML>
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-01-2000, 11:51 AM
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RE: 1973 240Z fuse box swap?

<HTML>You could get an aftermarket box like Painless Wiring. I'm not sure of the advantages, unless your current wiring is problematic. I dunno about the '37, but my 71 has the box on the trans tunnel ahead of the shifter - not much room. The "modern" style boxes are much larger, so you would likely have to relocate which would mean much wire splicing. If it's already mounted someplace like the passenger side kick panel, then it seems like converting would be pretty easy.</HTML>
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#3 (permalink) Old 06-01-2000, 12:16 PM
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RE: 1973 240Z fuse box swap?

<HTML>I have a 71 with the melted plastic fuse box in the tunnel ahead of the shifter. My car is not a show car so I want it to be reliable. My solution to the melted plastic fuse box was to remove it and solder blade type fuse holders in the place of the box. Looks like **** but it works like a champ. I also used relays for the headlights to get the load off the wire in the tunnel</HTML>
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-01-2000, 02:20 PM
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RE: 1973 240Z fuse box swap?

<HTML>I had the same problem with my box melting, so I just got a new one from Motorsports for $75. I figure the last one was good for 26 years, a new one should last as long as I keep the car.

The relays probably aren't a bad idea though, that much current running through the fuse box and through a switch causes problems, and you lose a little voltage along the way.</HTML>
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-01-2000, 11:29 PM
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<HTML>The fuse that melted was the park/tail/instrument panel fuse right? One thing you don't want to do is add any lights to that circuit. There are taps up front (behind front bumper, in the facia panel) to connect fog/driving lights. BUT if you do connect these up the lights will increase the current in that fuse' supply line to the max the wire will carry. The fuse will get hot and melt the cover and box, it will also get hot all the way up to the combination switch. If you use the taps up front, those definitely need to be relayed to the lights in use. Mine was perfect up until I did that back in mid 70's then zap it melted. With out use of the driving/fog lights, no heat-no problem. Headlights are a different circuit altogether, and when mine started to get dim and intermittant, all I did was dissassemble and clean the contacts in the combination switch and now they are as bright as the day it came from the factory, and I was there then as well as now.</HTML>

John Hull
Findlay Ohio
1972 240Z Original Owner
1978 280Z FP #197 Autox'r
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#6 (permalink) Old 06-02-2000, 04:50 AM
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Prevention ...

<HTML>Another really easy, preventative measure is to solder your fuse box. The spring clips which hold the fuses are riveted to the buss bars underneath the box. What happens is that years of heating and cooling cause the rivet connections to loosen up. This raises the connection resistance which causes the joint to get hotter. If the joint resistance gets to much the thing can get hot enough to melt the box (as you all know).

If you have a good box, remove it and flip it over. You really should remove the spring clip from the housing so you don't melt the box with the soldering iron. Solder all the rivet joint connections and replace. On a older box you'll be amazed at the difference it can make, especially in the headlights.

The relays are also a great second measure, but do the box first. It'll protect all the circuits.</HTML>
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